Jeweller Online: CMJ Autumn Trade Event Success
17 Aug 2022
The Company of Master Jewellers (CMJ) Autumn Trade Event closed its doors earlier this week after two successful days of trading and networking on 14th and 15th August.
While there might have been a degree of uncertainty ahead of the show – thanks to the unavoidable and last-minute change of venue – it was very quickly dispelled as we all experienced the major pluses of the world-class International Convention Centre (ICC) Wales. CMJ suppliers and retailers alike praised the purpose-built facilities for providing an open, light and modern exhibition space.
Ahead of the doors opening on Sunday and in the spirit of openness, CMJ CEO Emmet Cummins explained to suppliers that buyer figures were down by 20 per cent on the last event – sadly, most Scottish retailer members were unable to attend, for instance. The national rail strike, together with Covid cases and annual leave among staff, provided the perfect storm. However, by close of play, the feeling in the room was one of buoyant optimism – business had been done. Many suppliers worked in partnership with the CMJ to offer commercial deals that were only available to retailers at the event, such as increased discounts and extended payment terms.
Himanshu Shah, director of CMJ fine jewellery supplier Andre Michael, said: “We’ve seen more serious buyers… who are much more interested in new product and new lines. We’ve found that retailers are hungry to see something different this time, which has been great. The venue is lovely and the location is superb. We love having one open hall, which I find is better to network and spot retailers.”
If we had to nail down just three topics of product-related conversation during the two days, they would be: lab-grown diamonds, newness and ‘think big’.
The latter doesn’t necessarily refer to scale (although that too in some cases), but the fact that many buyers were looking to recession-proof their business with top-end jewellery. “There’s definitely an appetite for bigger, more expensive pieces,” explained Bernard Ungar of Ungar & Ungar. “If we’re hit by a recession, pieces that sell for £5,000 plus will mean less risk.” David Fell at Hans D Krieger agreed: “I’m seeing general health at the upper end of the trade and big impact, statement pieces are wanted.” At Ntinga too, it was the higher end of the offer that was gaining the most interest.
"We're seeing a lot more confidence in buying new pieces, particularly at higher price points," said Mark Milton of fine jewellery supplier Mark Milton. "Non-branded, high-quality jewellery is in demand, either in 9ct or 18ct gold and colour is very strong."
The CMJ Event also underlined the fact that lab-grown diamonds have been fully accepted by most in the industry. Instances of outright refusals are now fairly rare, with most buyers asking for lab-grown diamond-set pieces and the rest wanting to learn more. Howard Levine’s recently-launched Hayes & Lake collection is proving to be a very popular fore-runner in this market, with the offer broadening beyond bridal pieces to very pretty lab-grown diamond jewellery featuring unusual cuts and colours such as pink, blue and yellow.
Exclusive to CMJ members is the new Blossom collection of lab-grown diamond jewellery featuring a new cut – all 104 facets of it. And while Hatton Garden-based bespoke specialist Artisan – which launched this May – has a strong natural diamond focus, laboratory-grown diamonds have quickly become very big business for this company that specialises in ultra-fast turn-around of CAD work for its retail customers.
Among the many new collections launched was Hockley Mint’s 52-piece You & I line that celebrates the past, present and future of the British bridal and wedding day jewellery market for diverse and modern couples. Kevan Jenkinson, sales director says: “The collection takes retailers on a journey through Hockley Mint’s 70 years in business. We’ve reworked vintage designs, updated our current and most popular best-sellers and added new lines that reflect the 21st-century bridal market.” Pieces can be set with the retailer’s choice of natural or laboratory-grown diamonds and coloured gemstones.
It wasn’t all work; on Sunday evening, guests were treated to a Welsh-themed three-course evening meal. It was followed by legendary Welsh rugby referee and broadcaster Nigel Owens MBE, who captivated the crowd with stories of his career highlights before opening up about his mental health issues and prejudices he has faced since coming out as gay, delivering an inspiring, entertaining and moving speech.
Howard Graham, MD of Ntinga, said: “The ICC is simply the best exhibition hall – so clean, cool and brilliant service. Nigel Owens gave just one of the best speeches I’ve ever heard – both moving and funny. It’s been the most amazing show!”
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Source: National Association of Jewellers