Book Review – Shaun Leane
22 Jul 2020
Following our interview with much-celebrated and multi-award-winning British jewellery craftsman and designer Shaun Leane, we are now lucky enough to have our hands on his beautiful new book. Belinda Morris reviews it here.
The Shaun Leane Book, curated by, and with a foreword by, Shaun himself, this lavishly illustrated tome – it is far too huge, heavy and handsome to be a mere ‘book’ – includes in-depth studies by three renowned jewellery experts: Joanna Hardy, Claire Wilcox and Vivienne Becker. Their words open up the entire world of Leane – his first steps into the industry, his influences, his inspirations, his collaborations and innovations.
Happily, this celebratory record of his brilliant career marks the 21st anniversary of his jewellery house as well as his own 50th birthday. It also serves as a heartfelt tribute to his close friend and long-time collaborator British fashion designer Lee Alexander McQueen; many of the amazing images in Shaun Leane were taken on the runways of McQueen shows. I was present at a few of them – remarkable spectacles never to be forgotten.
Read about when The Jeweller Editor met Sean Leane
It is this collaboration that fine jewellery specialist Joanna Hardy reflects on, weaving the first chance meeting into Leane’s story, from early childhood aesthetic sensibilities in north London, to apprenticeship, success and acclaim in Hatton Garden and beyond. By 1997 he was working on six shows a year – two for McQueen’s own line and four for Givenchy (while McQueen was creative director). In 1999 he established his own eponymous brand.
Claire Wilcox, senior curator of Fashion at the V&A, delves a little deeper into the work that Leane created with McQueen. Not only are the extraordinary pieces – often for the whole body – described in deconstructive detail, but she talks us through the processes of concept, creation and fitting for a show. One model explains: “Wearing that coiled corset forced me to stand up… to pay attention… to be present, and be there, and be what you are. It’s very commanding.” Wilcox adds that Leane’s relationship with McQueen allowed his own originality to flourish.
Completing the study, jewellery writer and historian Vivienne Becker discusses Leane’s contemporary work of ‘modern classics’. By the time he launched his own collection, “his style emerged fully formed: a fusion of traditional, meticulous craftsmanship and conceptual modernity.” Cultural and historical references combine with his avant-garde spirit to create his distinctive, provocative, romantic style. His long, slender ‘Tusk’ earring exemplifies this and Leane’s vision of today’s woman as “ a warrior, romantic, strong yet also vulnerable.” The 250+ beautiful images are a testament to this vision.
Shaun Leane. Published by ACC Art Books. £55
Find out more about the book
Source: The National Association of Jewellers